We woke up and took the early morning taxi to JB, where, after our JB driver drove round for 15 minutes around some industrial estate like a headless chook looking for the hook up, we swapped to a pre-arranged taxi to Mersing. The Mersing driver, Mr Yep AKA Jacky with brylcream Roy Orbison hair played the Everley Brothers greatest hits on the car stereo the whole journey. Once I spoke to Mr Yep in my broken Mandarin, he couldn’t stop chatting to me; I had just enough Mandarin left in me to understand him over the next two hours, as we stopped at the vehicular registration offices in JB for a toilet break and roti cenai and teh tarek, before setting off for Mersing. Mr Yep— a Mersing boy, just a couple of years younger than me— his life story in short: left school at sixteen; careers include: mechanic, taxi driver, shop-keeper, now back driving taxi for the last 11 years; father of three; ‘when I first started driving taxi, I didn’t know any English at all. Boss said you’ll pick it up soon enough’. His run-down on the JB- Kota Tinggi- Mersing highway— scene of the last serious crash: ‘see that curve in the road there? No fatalities, drunk driver, just went straight through the curve and the drop… wah! Vehicle totaled…’ On lorry drivers: ‘poor pay, terrible hours, long, long hours just to scrape together enough pay, never enough sleep— they make a mistake it’s on their back not the company’s— keep clear of them!’ On roadside stalls in the middle of nowhere: ‘my kids love the bak kut teh there’.
‘You like durian? I can’t eat durian anymore. Since I started driving I had to stop eating durian six years ago. Too heaty!’
Past the Kota Tinggi by-pass the dual carriageway reverts to the old road, single-lane each way, all the way to Mersing— past WWII bunkers, oil-palm storage silos and Chinese cemeteries with the horse-shoe plan graves. At Mersing the Rawa office compound is infested with stony-eyed Dutch expats ( assume obscene six-figure salaries ) drinking beer while a put-upon Indonesian maid caters to their screaming toddlers and changes shit-filled nappies while trophy wife / Mum looks on dazed (‘why am I stuck in this dreary life?’). For some reason this lot make me think of the genocide perpetuated by the Dutch East India Co.; all for nutmeg. If we had not got on a separate speed-boat from the screamers M and I would probably have chucked one of the ugly little monsters overboard, or else throttled them.
After checking into our room on Rawa island, took my youngest out snorkeling to see the reef. Rawa was the island where, more than 30 years ago, Dad first took me snorkeling and I saw my first live coral. My youngest said to me after the swim, ‘it was life changing, Dad!’ Ten year-olds say the best things! A squall hit the island and blew deckchairs into the sea and dislodged tree branches onto the manicured walkway, flooded by the deluge. Then the sun broke through, as if the rain never happened.
Later we are eating dinner when a lean fifty-something Malay man comes to our table, ‘Excuse me, are you Goh Poh Seng’s son?’ It was Tom, one of the few remaining of the original Rawa boys Dad used to hang out and drink beer with. ‘We saw the name Goh and saw you’d booked a boat to Hujong so I wondered…’
‘How is your mother? She was here a few years ago.’ I join his table and shake hands with Joe, another old Rawa boy; we talk about old times. ‘You must only have been so high back then.’ We exchange gossip: who’s dead and who’s around and who’s still alive. ‘We were sorry to hear about your father.’
Next morning we get on a speed-boat for Pulau Hujong. Sun is out, sky is blue; as we round the back of Hujong and approach the front of the island I see it’s high tide and there are a couple of figures on the beach. Jump into clear water and swim ashore; boatman passes the bags to me to carry ashore while M and our youngest get off boat. The dark figure in shorts with the white hair and beard turns out to be Abdullah ( or Dollah— Joe in Rawa later tells me that Dollah’s nickname amongst the boys is ‘Rambo’ ) who was our caretaker on Hujong in the seventies and eighties. The guy sitting in the shade of the tree reading turns out to be my cousin Seng. His wife and daughter are swimming in the sea. I learn that two more cousins ( brothers Wong ) are arriving at lunch time. It’s a small world.
Take Dad’s ashes to coral beach where we find the rock in the middle of the beach shaped like a cross between a shark’s tooth and a guitar pick. Dad’s ashes are the same colour as Hujong sand; only coarser. With the high tide waves are breaking hard against the rock— whereas in Jerico Beach in VC Dad’s ashes hung like a cloud in the water— here he is immediately churned into the flux of the crashing waves. At this rate he’ll soon be ground as fine as Hujong sand.